Europe Cars & Trucks News

It’s a good thing the Bulletside Build-Off between Custom Classic Trucks and Classic Trucks isn’t televised, or people might think the CCT crew is trying to copy some of the moronic antics television audiences have come to expect from their favorite gearhead TV shows. On TV, one of the things folks can always count on is an incredibly tight deadline that has to be met or there will be the devil to pay. So as predictable as the rising of the sun each day, not an episode goes by where something really stupid or unfortunate occurs to jeopardize the successful outcome of the build.

In the early stages planning for the first leg of our friendly competition, Classic Trucks’ Grant and I thought it might be kind of cool if we got both of our entries completed in time to roll them out for Rod & Custom’s Americruise. Last year, when June 2007 sounded like such a long way in the future, the concept seemed doable, but since then Grant has come to his senses and moved his completion date back to some time in August. For me, the thought of not being able to make it to R&C’s Americruise was just a little too depressing, so I still intend to show up with my ‘72 Ford F-100.Since the Build-Off’s beginning, Grant and I have adhered to two distinctly different philosophies. First, I have been driving my ‘72 as much as possible during the build and have been running the 302-inch small-block Ford with its compound-low four-speed truck tranny while I’ve been saving up the money to build my dream motor and transmission. Some of the problems I’ve had while driving my ‘72 have been in the electrical system. If the charging circuit wasn’t boiling the battery at freeway speeds, the headlights were flickering off and on at night. If one has never had a good electrical fire, then none of this seems like a big deal, but trust me, nothing gets your attention like the truck’s cab filling up with flames.To address the overcharging problem, I replaced the voltage regulator, but the flickering lights were an ongoing mystery. After replacing the high-beam and headlight switches, the ‘72 still had a ghost. A closer inspection of the original wiring harness under the hood and around the core support revealed that engine heat along with the years had deteriorated the insulation to the point where there were exposed wires. Since I am planning to eventually install air conditioning along with power windows, door locks, and a high-end sound system, the decision to rewire the truck and upgrade the charging system was not a difficult one. In place of the stock Ford 38-amp alternator with an external voltage regulator, a “one-wire” 140-amp Powermaster was installed. It’s interesting to note that every Powermaster alternator comes with a proof of performance tag. My alternator produced 103 amps at idle and 164 amps at highway speed, more than enough to handle any future demands.

At this point in the game, I’m not sure how many cubic inches the ‘72 will end up with, but I am sure I’m sticking with a small-block motor. This means I’ll have to buy ancillaries, such as the intake manifold and headers, only once. Also, provided the starter motor I choose is up to the task, it can be retained throughout the Build-Off. In perfect operating condition, a stock starter motor produces between 75-110 lb-ft of torque. Although it has been said that when it comes to starters, there is no such thing as too much, I opted for Powermaster’s entry-level Powermax, which produces 160 lb-ft of torque. Powermaster’s Ultra Torque delivers 250 lb-ft of torque.

I was glad there weren’t any TV cameras present when I installed the starter motor. I had the right idea beginning the job with the starter because I was only going to make one change and, in theory, it would be easy to backtrack, but I still managed to make an embarrassing and time-wasting mistake. Bearing in mind that most Fords use a remote solenoid mounted on the inner fenderwell, it didn’t register to me that the Powermaster had a starter-mounted solenoid. After installing the Powermaster starter and hooking the positive cable from the stock solenoid, when I hit the ignition key all I got was a loud click from the solenoid. Like a big dummy, I immediately suspected there was something wrong with the new Powermaster starter and pulled it back out of the truck. The first thing I did when I removed the starter was to bench-test it, and this was when it sank in that there was a solenoid on it.

Not one to make the same mistake twice (or at least not in the same day), when it came time to install the Painless wiring kit designed to cover ‘67-77 FordF-series trucks, I knew I was going to have to account for relocating the solenoid. Another change that I had to allow for was converting from an external voltage regulator to the Powermaster’s one-wire setup as used on later-model Fords. We will cover both of these minor modifications in next month’s issue, where we will wrap up the F-100 wiring story and begin on the ’72’s uprated suspension and brakes.

All in all, preparing to install Painless’ PN 10118 14-circuit Ford F-series wiring kit with switches went without a hitch thanks to thinking out the next move without getting in a hurry. One of the many handy features that enables someone without electrical wiring experience to install a Painless wiring kit is that all the wires are color-coded to match the stock Ford wiring harness exactly, plus which part they attach to is clearly labeled. In the following photos and captions, we have highlighted some of the things we feel will simplify your wiring experience even further. So good luck, and remember, you are not on TV, so don’t freeze up.

Photo Gallery: Wiring a Ford F-100 - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

When it comes to customizing classic trucks, one of the tasks at hand is cleaning up the stock body lines while gaining functionality in the process. For ‘73-87 Chevrolet and GMC truck owners, the problem just got a lot easier thanks to One-Piece Products of Whittier, California, and the introduction of their one-piece window kits. Installing a one-piece window kit on a truck is one of those rare projects that seems like it would be a lot of work because of the dramatic changes it produces, but in reality, it’s quite simple.

We thought a good way to really put the one-piece window kit to the test would be to buy a beat-up old door from the junkyard and see if there were any problems. Typically, most C-10s seem to end up with a pair of those big, ugly West Coast mirrors strapped to the door, ultimately ending up with torn-out bolt holes and warped to boot. Our door was no exception. We didn’t worry about the holes, but we did address the area below the window scrapers, which needs to be straight. The best way to check it is to look at it as if you were trying to find a good two-by-four. The bodyline must run parallel with the window glass. The next step is to make sure the area isn’t flimsy. One-Piece Products includes a steel reinforcement bar to stiffen the area where the vent window track/brace is removed. With the vent window assembly removed, there are three screw holes that need to be filled. You can use the three plugs included in the kit, or, as we are doing with our ‘75 C-10 SS496 project, weld the holes up.

From here, our next step was to remove the front and rear window tracks, then make the necessary modifications explained in the directions. For the rear window channel guide, the kit includes a bracket with a built-in 4-inch extension that moves the channel closer to the door latch. In front, because the vent window assembly has been eliminated, the kit includes a new window channel to accommodate the new, longer, tempered one-piece door glass. Also included is a template indicating where the new holes need to be drilled, with the largest being 1 1/4-inch. Before we could permanently install the one-piece window, we went through a series of minor steps illustrated here with photos and captions. All in all, the installation went pretty smoothly, and when we tackled the other door, thanks to familiarity, it only took us about half as long to complete.

Photo Gallery: One Piece Window Kit Installation - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

As far as fiberglass body manufacturing has come in the last 20 years, there remains one area that often leaves owners in a dilemma as to how to proceed. Where steel bodies have all the tack strips and headliner bows integral to the upholstery and headliner, many fiberglass bodies do not. Precisely how to attach the material-covered panels to the body is usually left up to the upholsterer–and is not generally a task the average home-type builder can perform in his garage. This exacting operation requires a good deal of measuring and planning. It also requires practice and experience to complete the task to a competent level.

We recently followed and photo-graphed the talented trimmer Lance Troupe as he installed a headliner in a ‘36 Ford coupe–and immediately saw the comparison to how a ‘glass pickup cab headliner might be created. Starting with the bare shell of the body, Lance created the wood blocks for attaching birch templates, which allow the covered panels to make an interior. With more than a little practice, you might be able to fabricate an interior that may not be quite affordable from a professional trimmer. Here’s the first of a two-part story on how the process of creating a custom headliner is accomplished by a professional.

Photo Gallery: Auto Headliner Installation - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

It doesn’t matter if you call it the Bumpside Build-off or the Bulletside Build-off (see Classic News in this issue for more information), there is one thing for sure, we definitely have two schools of thought at work in this competition. Of course, since Grant at Classic Trucks ‘68 Flareside was on its last legs with a bad rod knock and a host of other terminal conditions, he didn’t have much of a choice whether or not he was going to drive histruck before it was torn down. Thankfully, in Custom Classic Trucks’ corner, our ‘72 Styleside was in good enough condition that we have and will be able to drive it as work progresses. This is not to say the truck didn’t have some reliability issues when we first got it, because there were a few breakdowns. It seems like nine times out of 10, when an engine has problems running, it can usually be traced back to the ignition.

First things first, we popped off the distributor cap and discovered everything inside was junk. With all the really great electronic ignitions on the market today, we didn’t even consider rebuilding the points-type ignition, but just for giggles, we hooked up a dwell meter and confirmed our suspicions when the erratic readings (jumping needle) indicated the distributor had a tremendous amount of slop due to wear.

Since this was our first engine tech on the ‘72 F-100 project, we figured it would be a good idea to make a baseline run on the dyno to establish where we were starting from. We went to see our friend Mark Dibella at MD Automotive in Westminster, California,where anyone with an interest in running on a dyno can buy time on their Dynojet floordynometer. We made two pulls; the second one was the best. In the stock configuration,the power peaked at 4,500 rpm at 195 lb-ft of torque and 117 horsepower to the rearwheels. With our baseline run out of the way, we drove the ‘72 back to the house andinstalled a Street/Strip DUI distributor from Performance Distributors in Memphis,Tennessee, along with a set of Live Wires spark plug wires. After we installed the DUIdistributor, our little 302 Ford motor fired right up and ran a lot crisper. We could hardlywait to get the ‘72 back on MD Automotive’s dyno. Unfortunately, in our enthusiasm forour newly discovered power, on the return trip we blew the clutch and lunched thetransmission. After we get the driveline problems cured, we’ll make another run on thedyno and publish the results in an upcoming issue.

For those of you who have never installed a new distributor or perhaps tried and ended upwith disastrous results, we’ll share some tips that we discovered work quite well.The first thing we learned was it worked best to install the DUI distributor as if it wasgoing into an engine that had never been fired. This means we started at zero and set theinitial timing. To make sure we weren’t 180 degrees out, we removed the valve cover andmade sure the intake and exhaust valves were closed. The next step was to ensure the pre-fitted Live Wires would all reach their corresponding spark plug. This meant we had tolocate where we were going to position the number 1 spark plug terminal on the DUIdistributor cap. With the initial timing established, we then had to make sure there were12 volts to the distributor’s hot wire. With the initial timing set and the DUI’s installationcompleted, the 302 fired right up. The final steps were to set the timing at 12 degreesBTDC (bottom top dead center) with the vacuum advance disconnected, and then towhere we could run as much advance as possible without pinging.

In addition to eliminating the externally mounted coil, ballast resistor, and ignition pointswith condenser, Performance Distributors’ one-piece DUI with its one-wire hookup isdesigned with more dwell time, producing a hotter spark. As are all DUIs, ours wascurved on a distributor machine specifically for our engine.

With a super smooth curve, our 302 had instant throttle response and ran like a champ-right up until the added power blew the transmission, that is. CCT

Photo Gallery: 1972 Ford Pickup - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

Any time one runs across a custom classic truck that has been in the hands of the same owner for many years, it is always interesting to note the changes both the owner and the truck have undergone. It seems the more radical the truck was built in the beginning, the less the owner tends to enjoy it as he ages, and almost without exception the truck is driven less.

Such was the case for Jerry Sievers of Placentia, California, and the ‘64 Chevy shortbed Stepside pickup he has owned for the last 30 years. Complementing the ’64’s classic hot rod looks, the drivetrain in Jerry’s pickup is a 327 with three deuces backed by an M-21 Muncie four-speed hooked to a set of deep 4.10:1 gears. As we all know, deep gears are a lot of fun when it’s time to leave someone sitting at the stoplight, but the fun starts towear off as soon as one hits fourth gear and the engine is still screaming like a banshee. In addition to the wear and tear on both the engine’s internal components and the driver’s nerves, an engine sustained at higher rpm burns a lot more gasoline and ultimately wears out faster.

Jerry considered dumping his four-gear Muncie in favor of a late-model five-speed, but in addition to losing a major part of his ’64’s nostalgic appeal, he was concerned installing a five-speed with its wider ratios would hurt his truck’s performance. A standard five-speed would drop the rpm by 40 percent on a first to second gear shift, which means when winding first to 4,000 rpm and then shifting to second, the tach would drop to 2,400rpm. To give an example of how wide a jump that is, skip-shifting an M-21 Muncie from4,000 rpm in first to third gear will drop the tachometer to 2,327 rpm.

Before Jerry installed the Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive unit, the jump from 4,000 rpmin first gear in his close-ratio M-21 Muncie would be to 2,981 rpm in second gear. Afterinstalling the Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive unit, shifting from first gear at 4,000 rpm tofirst gear overdrive will drop the rpm to 3,120. When we asked Gear Vendors about theeffect of a clutchless power shift from first gear to first gear overdrive, they explained,”Since the vehicle actually is gaining speed during the Gear Vendors shift (no clutchdepression), you actually would never see less than probably 3,300 rpm.”

Prior to installing the Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive unit in Jerry’s ‘64, he was aware ofthe benefits he would reap with a taller top gear as far as engine noise and better gasmileage, but it was being able to select closer-ratio gears that really blew his mind.

Listening to Jerry’s ‘64 Chevy as he sped away, the truck sounded like a dragster blastingthrough the gears at the dragstrip. This was due to the ultra-close gear ratios created bythe Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive unit splitting the M-21 Muncie’s stock ratios, plus itsability to withstand full-throttle power shifts. For example, the Muncie’s 2.20 first gearbecomes 1.71 with the Gear Vendors unit engaged, in comparison to shifting to the close-ratio Muncie second-gear ratio of 1.64 (which, thanks to Gear Vendors, no longer seemsas close as it once was). For the next shift, since second-gear overdrive and third-geardirect both have a 1.28 ratio, the hot setup is to manually shift into third gear direct andthen punch the Gear Vendors button for a clutchless shift to third overdrive, which is1.00, the same as the Muncie’s fourth gear. And now, of course, since we are back intofourth gear, where the final drive on Jerry’s ‘64 is 4.10:1, his little 327 is turning somemajor rpm at highway speeds. This is where the Gear Vendors unit, with its 28.6 percentfaster overdrive cruising, really comes into play. The 4.10:1 differential in Jerry’s ‘64 inessence becomes a rearend packing 3.20:1 gears.

In comparison to a major manufacturer’s mass-produced transmission manufactured withlarger allowable tolerances and corners cut to save costs, the Gear VendorsUnder/Overdrive unit is a precision-made jewel. Starting with the overdrive’s casessourced from foundries in Germany, England, and California, Gear Vendorscustom-machines their internal parts in-house at their El Cajon, California, manufacturingplant. Gear Vendors precision-cuts their splines instead of rolling them. In conjunctionwith Gear Vendors’ improved design of the legendary Laycock de Normanville’splanetary gear arrangement and specially formulated friction materials from Raybestos,the Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive unit is capable of handling 1,200-plus horsepower. Soit doesn’t matter if you use a Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive unit for racing or just beat itas hard as you can on the street, they are unconditionally guaranteed for two years andare designed to last a lifetime.

Installing the Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive unit onto the M-21 Muncie is prettystraightforward and doesn’t require any special skills. Since there are only four bolts thathold a Muncie in place, it was easiest to remove it and install the Gear Vendors unit onthe workbench.

Thanks to keeping the 327 within its power curve, the ‘64 accelerated faster and was more tractable on the freeway, switching out of overdrive to function as a passing gear, then back to overdrive for better gas mileage. CCT

Photo Gallery: 1964 Chevrolet Pickup - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

Before the introduction of paint-saving systems utilizing a clay bar, the process of removing particulate debris and contaminants (paint overspray, rusted metal shavings, oxidation) from a truck’s paint job required a rubbing compound applied with a buffer, a process called “wheeling it out.” It was a major undertaking that required the skill of a professional detailer with the ability to correct the problem without cutting through the paint into the primer. Next in line to the perils of the wheel was the appearance of swirl marks, a condition that only the most skilled detailers were capable of eliminating. Needless to say, it would be extremely risky at best for an amateur to attempt any level of reconditioning the surface of his vehicle’s paint job.

That’s the beauty of using a clay bar system to repair the damage done to a paint job from the elements; whether it’s years and years of natural exposure or a careless house painter, one doesn’t have to be a professional to use clay. All it takes is someone with a vision of how they would like their paint to appear and the willingness to invest some labor. Clay is far less invasive (how’s that for a contemporary term?) than rubbing compound, andit’s almost impossible to produce bad results or damage the paint.

Our subject vehicle is the ‘72 Ford F-100 introduced in this month’s Zero Clearance. Amazing as it might sound, when we discovered the truck in Dunsmuir, California, it still had its original paint and wasn’t showing any signs of surface rust. To our utter horror, as soon as we relocated the ‘72 to Southern California’s coastline, it was like 35 years had passed overnight. In addition to three-plus decades of oxidation, rust particles and whoknows what were attaching themselves to the ’72’s surface. We knew that if we didn’t do something about it soon, our paint would end up looking dingy, faded, and almost as badas the paint on Classic Trucks’ ‘68 F-100 that we intend to beat. CCT

Photo Gallery: Mothers Auto Paint Saving Products - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

Modern automobiles travel faster and are driven more miles(per family) every year. National Traffic Safety Council statistics reveal an accurate history: There’s no doubt that seatbelts save lives. Every insurance company in the country has lobbied for increased safety features, including front-seat airbags for both the driver and passenger. Ask anyone who has been involved in even a minor traffic accident about the importance of automotive safety features.

Logic and years of research have demonstrated the importance of keeping a driver and his passengers in their seats. Because of modern freeway speeds, nothing short of a three-point, inertia-reel safety belt restraint system will satisfy most insurance underwriters (not to mention each state’s legal requirements).

Because the typical classic ‘67-72 Chevrolet or GMC project pickup came with a very basic set of lap belts, it may be time to upgrade to a much more protective seatbelt system. The Truck Stop Specialty Conversions in Fullerton, California, has a solution to the problem. The solution comes without having to drill an abundance of extra holes in your truck. In fact, The Truck Stop’s new three-point, inertia-reel safety belt restraint system for ‘67-72 Chevrolet and GMC light-duty pickup trucks uses all the stock factory mounting points-it’s simply a bolt-on process.

“All of our seatbelt applications are manufactured to meet or exceed applicable federal motor vehicle safety standards and codes,” said The Truck Stop’s Bob Daniels. “All of The Truck Stop’s three-point, inertia-reel seatbelt retractor kits are manufactured by one of the industry’s leading OE manufacturers of seatbelt restraint systems for cars like Acura, BMW, and Lexus, using the highest-quality weave material, swivel brackets, and retractors available on the market!”

In addition, a total of six OE colors are available: black, blue, burgundy, gray, red, and tan. The retail price for one of these systems is approximately $220 plus shipping.We believe you’ll agree with our feelings on the importance of safety. And when you decide to protect yourself and your family, you’ll install a comparable modern seatbelt system. Here’s how The Truck Stop’s Bob Daniels upgraded customer Dutch Sittig’s ‘71 Chevrolet shortbed pickup.

Photo Gallery: Safety Belt Restraint System Installation For A 1971 Chevrolet Pickup - Custom Classic Trucks

In the wake of 911, the Orange County Register of Santa Ana, California, ran aninteresting story about the history of Line-X and its amazing properties. It told of how theproduct’s inventor stumbled onto the process while searching for a better way to protecthis race-car trailer’s bed. The feature went on to reveal that while rebuilding thePentagon, Line-X was sprayed onto the walls due to its incredible ability to resistexplosions.

When the time came for us to clean up our ‘72 Ford F-100’s steel bed, we were justlooking for a fix until we could locate a better example. Our bed was hammered fromyears of extremely hard service, and we erroneously assumed it was beyond saving. Itwas 9 a.m. when we showed up at Line-X of Huntington Beach, California, with our ’72shortbed Ford. We asked Marcel Venable if they could hammer out the major dents in thewheelwells prior to spraying in the Line-X. Before we could say, “You can’t findreplacement panels for these things anywhere,” Ivan had the wheelwells and bed floorroughed out almost to perfection.

In retrospect, knowing what we know now thanks to Line-X, it wouldn’t have takenmuch more work to cherry it out completely. After the ‘72 was Line-X’d, we mentionedthis to Marcel, who told us it wasn’t too late because the dents can be knocked out after abed has been coated with Line-X. With that news, there’s a good chance it won’t be toolong before we get out a hammer and dolly or section in a new floor, forgetting aboutanother bed.

Beyond the obvious gains in our truck’s appearance, as soon as we drove away wediscovered a benefit we had anticipated, but not with such a dramatic difference. All thesqueaks and rattles that were in our bed when we drove up were gone, and there was a lotless road noise in the cab. CCT

Photo Gallery: Line X Bed Liner Install - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine

One of the major drawbacks of early-model trucks with a straight-axle, leaf-spring front suspension is the steering. Early-model standard mechanical steering boxes use links and arms to ensure both wheels turn in the same direction and at the same time. If you can, ignore the excess quarter turn of play in the steering wheel, the endless rotational ratio of sometimes 22:1, and the amount of uncomfortable bumpsteer.

Manual recirculating ball-steering turning forces are transmitted through ball bearings from a worm gear on the steering shaft to a sector gear on the pitman shaft. Ball-nut assemblies are filled with ball bearings, which roll along grooves between the worm-gear teeth and the grooves inside the ball nut. When the steering wheel is turned, the worm gear on the end of the steering shaft rotates, and the movement of the recirculating balls causes the ball nut to move up and down along the worm. Movement of the ball nut is carried to the sector gear by teeth on the side of the ball nut. The sector gear then moves with the ball nut to rotate the pitman shaft to activate the steering linkage. The balls recirculate from one end of the ball nut to the other through ball return guides.

Due to standard steering designs, the geometry of the multiple links and pickup points tends to create bumpsteer. Bumpsteer occurs when the wheels steer themselves without input from the steering wheel. This undesirable steering action is developed when the front tires and suspension encounter drastic road surface changes, like potholes, causing an uneven toe change that occurs as a result of the steering linkage not being parallel with the road surface. This will cause the wheels to change toe unevenly as the suspension undergoes jounce and rebound. Also, the steering-box worm gear design develops a noticeable amount of dead play in the steering wheel rotation, prior to the left/right turning action of the front wheels.

No Limit Engineering has a cure for the problem with its rack-and-pinion steering assembly kit. This unique unit simply mounts to a custom mounting bracket bolted to the backside of the straight-axle beam. Special tie-rod end adapters allow you to thread the factory tie-rod ends onto the new rack-and-pinion tie rods. Eliminating the bulky factory steering box allows for increased engine-compartment room for exhaust, header, and power-steering pump clearance.

This simple installation can be completed in a couple of hours with the use of basic power tools.

No Limit Engineering Power Rack and Pinion Steering Kit:

Improves Steering Feel-More direct and precise steering input.

Quicker Ratio-Only three turns, lock-to-lock.

Light Weight-Aluminum rack-and-pinion body housing.

Eliminates Bumpsteer-No idler, pitman arms, or drag link to compound tie-rod angle, creating bumpsteer.

Bolt-on Installation-Drill only two holes in the existing straight-axle beam to mount the rack-and-pinion mounting bracket.

No Limit Engineering Power Rack and Pinion Kits:

‘47-54 Chevy Pickup

‘55-59 Chevy Pickup

‘48-52 Ford F1 Pickup

‘53-56 Ford F-100 Pickup

‘57-60 Ford Pickup

‘49-54 Studebaker Pickup

Photo Gallery: Rack and Pinion Steering Assembly Kit - Custom Classic Trucks

Isn’t it crazy how psychiatrists hold up splatters of ink and decipher how you think based on what you make of it? But what’s even crazier is that people do this sort of Jedi mind trick all day long. They see an object or picture and have their own feelings. Take a picture of Canada, for example. If you hold it up, the first things we’ll think of are Canadian moonshine, Wayne Gretzky, and the band Rush. But take the same picture and throw it in someone else’s face and they might think Fargos.

When Ray Brandt thinks of Canada, he thinks of home first, but then he thinks about Fargo trucks. Fargo trucks were the Chrysler Corporation of Canada’s truck lineup (back in the early 1930s, Chrysler felt selling Dodge trucks on a Chrysler lot wouldn’t go over so well, so they created the Fargo truck line). In the mid-’30s the Fargo lineup debuted in Canada, and for the most part their truck models for the next three decades were basically Dodge trucks with rebadging and trim, but in Canada the Fargo name was just as recognized as Dodge. This couldn’t be truer for Ray, who can remember his dad’s ‘50 Fargo like it was yesterday. Not only was it his farm’s work truck, but it was also what Brandt learned to drive in when he was 11 years old. With a fleet of cool custom trucks, cars, and rods, Ray figured his next project ought to pay homage to where it all began, a ‘50 Fargo.

Brandt picked this ‘50 up locally near his home in Alberta, Canada, and from there on out it was open season on the Fargo. Although plans for some way-sick custom work were in the pipe, Brandt needed to get his foundation set up first. Ray wanted to keep everything Mopar. First up, the frame was yanked from the truck, and the X-members were boxed. Then Ray grafted a ‘78 Volare frontend to the frame. He used the disc brakes, sway bar, torsion bars–basically everything from the Volare frontend–and incorporated it into the boxed frame. Out back, he installed a Dodge Posi-traction rear. For the powertrain, Brandt built a 360 Dodge motor. For the most part, the motor is still equipped with its stock parts, but an Edelbrock intake manifold and carburetor were installed. The final result is somewhere around 320 estimated horsepower, which is plenty of power to spin the Dodge 727 tranny and light up the Truspoke 15-inch rims out back.

With the chassis done, it was time for Ray to bust out the torch, hammer, and dollies and get to work. Instead of shaving a few things here and there, Ray wanted to go all out on the Fargo. Right off the bat he pulled out the sawzall and hacked 3 inches out of the roof. Then he refined the body lines by removing various pieces of trim along with the door handles. Next up, the body seams were filled and the antenna was frenched along with the headlights for an old-skool feel. On ‘50 Fargos the hood opened up from the side instead of the front, and there were big and bulky chrome openers on the sides. Ray sliced the openers off and relocated them behind the Fargo badge, which gives the hood a much cleaner look.

With the cab and forward finished, Brandt then moved to the truck’s rear. In ‘50 Fargo trucks had a very round and defined cab, but the bed was as square as Al Gore. Ray wanted to create a symmetrical feel by giving the bed a more rounded look. First up, the bed was slimmed 4 inches in length, and the bedrails were flattened. Brandt then used exhaust tubing to roll the ends of the bedrails, which completely left the straight-edge days in the past.

Going one step further, Ray rounded the bed’s front and rear corners with exhaust tube and made a one-off tailgate to match the radiused bed. To get the truck as low as possible, the bedfloor was raised 3 inches, and 2-inch mini tubs were installed as well. As for the rear fenders, they were bobbed and raised 2 inches to accommodate the raised bed. The rear bumper was removed, and acustom roll pan was built as well. Lastly, the only non-Mopar parts were installed, ‘39 Ford teardrop taillights.

With the bodywork done, it was time for paint. When it comes to the Fargo, Ray did everything besides two things: paint and charging the A/C. The funny part is, Ray farmed the truck out for paint because his shop is just way too dirty to paint in, not because he doesn’t know how! Precision Auto Body in Calgary, Alberta, sprayed the Fargo in RM Flame Red. Then Ray laid the maplewood in the bed.

To finish off the truck, Ray pirated more Mopar parts to complete the interior. First up, he found some AMC seats and recovered them in grey vinyl and cloth. As for the steering column, it was yanked from a Jeep. TPI Tech gauges were installed in the dash using an EZ wiring kit. Housing the Jensen CD player is a custom center console Ray built. Lastly, Ray installed a Vintage Air A/C system.

Whether we here in the States think of a Fargo as a truck or a movie, one can’t deny that Ray Brandt’s ‘50 is as unique as it is totally rad, eh!

Photo Gallery: 1950 Chrysler Fargo - Custom Classic Trucks Magazine